The Jerusalem Studio School

The Jerusalem Studio School was not an easy place to find when we first arrived.  At first glance, the building looks more like a cross between a strip mall and an office park, and the only sign for the school is this small plaque in the center of the building next to one of the elevators (there are three elevators in three different parts of the building, four entrances, and not all elevators go to the top floor). Inside the building is more like an office building, it is across the street from a mall, and located in the more industrial southern part of Jerusalem.

The school is on the 5th floor with a great north facing view of Jerusalem.  On warm days we spend most of our lunch breaks out on the balcony.  

The school is pretty small, but there is plenty of space for everything we need.  Just inside the front door is a room with the two fourth year student's studios.  From the front door you walk down an entry way into the main area that has our break area, kitchen, and the reception desk. 

If you go to the left from this main room you enter the studios for the third year students, and a computer room.  If you go the right you can either go down a short hall to the bathrooms, sinks and shelves where first and second year students keep all of their supplies, or you can go into the main studio.

The first day of class started with an all day lecture by the head instructor, Israel Hershberg, where he gave us a slide lecture on his beliefs about art and his expectations on what we should be trying to achieve in our drawings at the school.  He showed us images of drawings by several artists he felt are excellent examples of his theories such as Edwin Dickinson and Thomas Eakins.  Israel Hershberg comes into class every other Tuesday, and every week we have two other teachers, Oleg Lissin who comes in on Wednesdays, and Nicole Ardiles who comes in on Sundays.  For the first half of the school year, we work exclusively in charcoal, and in January we make the transition to oil painting.  For the first few months all drawings were done from the model in natural light.  In the beginning, poses were much shorter, 5 minutes to 30 minutes; then after about a month we moved on to two hours poses, and then we did drawings from a pile of junk for two weeks.  Next we started all day poses, then a week long pose and will start a month long pose on December 24th.  After this month long pose we begin painting.  We were encouraged to work on small areas in the beginning, getting the proportion and measurements perfect. Then as we have more time we start working on more of the figure and/or adding spots of value to give a sense of light and dark. The whole time we are trying to think abstractly, translating what we are seeing into the language of drawing, without getting distracted with identifying/naming the object we are drawing.  Often the drawings start out very abstract and as time permits, more and more of the figure is revealed.

Food Adventures

I don't have much to share today, but I wanted to do a post dedicated to the food we have been enjoying lately.  Not having a job, I spend a ridiculous amount of time going between food blogs, cookbooks, the grocery store (which is luckily just down the street!), and the kitchen.  We were also introduced to a British reality show called "The Great British Bake-off" by our lovely roommate, Clare (who herself is British).  On this show, amateur bakers complete specific baking challenges each week until finally one of them beats out the rest and wins the competition.  As is the trend with most shows we love, we have made a habit out of watching an episode (or six) in the evening and let me tell you, there is only so long you can sit there and watch a bunch of people make 48 macarons each and not be tempted to try it yourself.

My own vanilla macarons!

Back at home, I had definitely transitioned out of baking, as we had pretty much stopped using wheat or grains in our cooking.  The Nutritional Therapy program I completed advocates for a more ancestral diet, consisting of protein, vegetables and very few (if any) fermented grains, and we adopted this way of eating pretty whole-heartedly.  While I still believe in eating ancestrally (aka eating whole foods), I think the past couple months have been a great exercise in being flexible and more open-minded about what constitutes a "healthy" diet.  I am learning that for me, not being ultra regimented is the best way to go because this lowers my stress levels and I can actually enjoy eating a variety of foods.  And, honestly, I have really loved baking again.  Every week I try my hand at making challah bread for Shabbat dinner, and I always feel so accomplished when I pull a lovely braided loaf out from our measly toaster oven.  When I bake I really feel like I am embarking on a project and there is a sense of accomplishment when I finish.  These days, that sense of purpose is something I long for often.  Sometimes my projects turn out and other times they really don't, but the beauty of having time on my hands is that I can try again until I succeed.

My first attempt at making challah turned out really well.  I used a recipe from Smitten Kitchen for an olive oil and fig loaf and I would highly recommend it.

The egg wash on the challah made a lovely pattern on the parchment paper.  We saved this and it now hangs in our kitchen :)

I should also mention that, in addition to eating more baked goods, we have been eating a lot of vegetables and fruit :)  I have still been intentional about using as many local foods as possible, as I really want to come home with lots of new recipes up my sleeve.  When we have friends over for Shabbat dinner, I try to create dishes that will seem familiar to our Israeli guests, even if I have added my own touches here and there.  One of our favorite dishes to make is roasted eggplant with tahina, which is delicious but photographs terribly (as you can clearly see below-- my apologies).  You'll have to take my word for it, but this is a really simple recipe that I highly recommend you try in your own kitchen.  Serve this alongside some extra tahina for dipping, pita (or other dipping device, like cucumbers or bell peppers), and a big salad.  Welcome to Jerusalem.

That mush with cheese on top is the finished eggplant.  We're not winning any beauty pageants here.

Eggplant with Tahina
 serves 2

1 large eggplant, washed and dried
Tahina, for drizzling (recipe below)
Couple tablespoons parsley, chopped
Feta, or other salty cheese
Olive oil, for drizzling
Sea salt, preferably coarse

Place the whole eggplant either under the broiler in your oven or over a hot grill and cook until the skin is charred (in my toaster oven this takes about 20-30 minutes), turning once or twice.  Remove eggplant from the oven and pierce with a fork to allow steam to escape, then let it cool for a few minutes.  Once you can comfortably handle the eggplant, use a sharp knife to cut lengthwise down the middle, but leave the stem in tact.  The skin should peel off easily, leaving you with the soft white flesh of the eggplant attached to its stem.

Arrange the eggplant on a plate and use a knife to slash through it a little bit (I find this allows more tahina and olive oil to seep in).  Drizzle with a couple tablespoons of tahina and about a tablespoon of olive oil (As is the case with everything in this recipe, I never measure, so use your best judgement here).  Sprinkle liberally with sea salt, crumbled feta cheese, and chopped parsley.

Tahina
makes about 1/3 cup (or the perfect amount for drizzling on an eggplant and serving as a dip on the side)

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (from about 1/2 a lemon)
1 tablespoon whole milk yogurt (optional)
1 tablespoon water
1/4 cup tahini paste (this can be found in most grocery stores, usually by the other nut/seed butters-- tahini is just ground sesame seeds!)
Sea salt 

In a small bowl, mix together the lemon juice, water, salt, and yogurt (if using).  Add the tahini paste and stir until the mixture thickens.  If you want a thinner sauce, add more water or lemon juice, otherwise taste for salt and serve.

If you will be serving this as a side dish, I recommend spreading it out on a little plate.  Top with a sprinkling of chopped parsley and a drizzle of olive oil.

Note: This sauce will keep for a few days (at least) in the fridge, but you will need to thin it out each time you want to use it.

A Swing and a Miss

Well friends, if we had talked a week ago I would have told you that I would be volunteering on a farm right now.  A few weeks ago, I signed up for the WWOOF (World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms) Israel program, which means that I have access to over 60 farms throughout the country that are looking for volunteers.  In exchange for work throughout the day, the volunteer is provided with a place to stay and meals, so I thought it sounded like a great opportunity to get out of the city for a bit and learn about organic farming methods.  Someday, I hope that Eric and I will have a home with a yard that allows for a few vegetable beds and chickens, but before then I want to learn more about how to keep plants alive and happy (since I mostly kill everything I try to grow now).

I found a farm just outside of Tel Aviv that grows vegetables for stores and private residences in and around Tel Aviv, so I made plans to spend 6 days volunteering and soaking up as much knowledge as possible.  I left Jerusalem yesterday morning and arrived at the farm around 11am.  The owner of the farm was not at all what I expected when I imagined an organic farmer (admittedly, I probably have an idealized notion of what this looks like), but I was reassured when he showed me around the fields and I saw all of the amazing produce growing on his land.  The farm really was impressive and I could not wait to get to work!  He then showed me his house where I would be staying.  The room provided for me was more of an office and the whole house was a complete disaster.  Now, I do not go to a farm expecting pristine conditions, but I honestly did not feel comfortable sitting on the "bed" let alone sleeping on it.  Not to mention, it would just be the two of us in the house, which felt a little off.  There were two other volunteers there, but I quickly learned that they were both leaving that evening and would not be back until Sunday.  When arranging the visit, I specifically asked if coming during Shabbat would be a problem, because I knew that most places would not work Friday and Saturday, but the owner did not seem concerned so I assumed work would continue as usual.  Unfortunately, staying on the farm alone with a strange man for two days was not really what I bargained for, so I decided to head back home.  I did, however, get to spend the afternoon planting rows of garlic, so I do not feel like the trip was wasted.

My super sad almost bed for 6 nights :(
 
I do plan to look into other farms, as I know that the right circumstances could result in an amazing experience.  Now I know to look for farms run by a family (as opposed to one guy) and to ask specific questions about the room being provided for my stay.  I'll chalk this one up to experience and hope that the next trip is a bit more successful!  Now Eric and I get to have a quiet Shabbat at home, which will probably include lots of episodes of The Great British Bake-off, so things could certainly be worse :)

Tel Aviv

Last week Eric took Monday off from school and we hopped a bus to Tel Aviv.  In good traffic it is only about a 45 minute drive from Jerusalem to Tel Aviv, which is kind of incredible when you consider it would often take me this long to drive from my house in Echo Park (Los Angeles, CA) to the beach and in this case we were driving across the width of the whole country.  Israel, you're so tiny and adorable. 

Tel Aviv is situated along the Mediterranean coast and is at a much lower elevation than Jerusalem, which means that the weather in each city can be drastically different.  I wore what I considered a light dress based on the chill in the Jerusalem air, but once we got to Tel Aviv I was completely overheating.  This is November, people.  I was not prepared for weather that rivals Seattle summer temperatures.  But, ultimately we had a lovely day walking around town and ended up perched at the beach for sunset. 

 We started the day at my favorite coffee shop in the German Colony (the neighborhood closest to our house).  I come here often enough that the barista always knows what I want to order and helps me when other people working there do not understand what I am saying.  But, let's be honest...the best thing about this place is the tiny free shortbread that comes with the coffee.

 Tel Aviv is certainly more modern than Jerusalem, and you get this sense as soon as the tall buildings of the city are visible from the freeway.

 Being in Tel Aviv really made me feel like I was back home in California.  The beach is littered with little cafes where you can eat in the sand and there is a great bike path that follows the road along the water.  There are actually bikes you can rent, so I think we'll have to consider this next time we go (especially since I felt like I was going to collapse after walking everywhere for a couple hours and the breeze would be a welcome addition to the direct sun!).

One of the few beach cafes where you can sit in the sand.  We thought about indulging, but ultimately opted for a delicious (and cheaper) pita and hummus shop.

 One of the great things about the beaches here is that there are FREE chairs and umbrellas all along the beach that are up for grabs.  I can imagine it being tough to snag a seat during the summer, but we had no trouble.

 The water in the sea is very shallow for quite a ways, so I was able to take my camera into the water and snap a couple shots from a different direction.  It was strange to be so far from shore and hardly wet up to my waist.  The water was incredibly warm (warmer than Lake Washington probably ever gets) and the beach itself was covered in super fine sand. 

  Eric made a quick run to the store to pick up some beer for a sunset happy hour :)

 Right before sunset, this man rode up to the beach on his horse.  This was funny not only because it is not something you see everyday, but also because the only signs we saw along the beach said that no animals were allowed. 

It was a gorgeous evening and the sunset was lovely.  Everything was sweetened by the fact that we were sitting outside on the beach in November in tank tops.  I am not sure this could even happen in California!  When the weather actually gets colder in Jerusalem, it will be fantastic to have this beachy get-away within an hour's drive.  'Til next time, Tel Aviv!

The Old City

A couple weeks ago I (Devyn) took a tour of the Old City because I figured there must be lots of history we had missed while walking through on our own.  In the span of two hours, I was guided through the winding alleyways of the Old City and found myself in areas I had not known existed (which seemed impossible given how much we had explored already).  The Old City is divided into four Quarters: Armenian, Jewish, Muslim, and Christian.  While the quarters are not explicitly separated, it is fairly clear when you have passed from one into another just based on the dress of the people, the building style, and goods for sale.  I started my tour in the Armenian Quarter, which is actually very closed-off to outsiders and the wall pictured above is about as far as we could get.  During the Crusades, the Armenian Christians were completely massacred, as the Crusaders assumed the Armenians must be Muslims based on their darker skin tone.  In order to protect themselves from any future attacks, they have closed off their portion of the Old City (quite reasonable once you consider what they were put through in the past).  In the above photo you can see there is a line in the wall where the stone ends and a newer addition has been added on the top.  Directly across the street from this wall (we are talking a few feet, as this street was more of an alleyway) is a building belonging to the Jewish Quarter, much of which was rebuilt after its destruction in 1967.  This newer building was constructed taller than the Armenian wall, and the Armenians feared that people could simply jump from one building roof to the other and enter their Quarter.  In order to maintain their private sector, the Armenians added to their wall (which is why you see the line where the original stone ends and the new material begins), making it taller than the one next to it.  And, just to cover all the bases, they added broken glass shards to the new portion of the wall so that anyone attempting to make the jump across would surely not make it (you can sort of see the glass sticking out of the upper portion of the wall).  Yup, broken glass shards to keep intruders out.  Welcome to the first stop on my tour :)

After such a heavy story surrounding the Armenian Quarter, I was happy that our next stop brought with it a symbol of peace within the city.  In this photo I was standing on the rooftop of the marketplace above the Jewish Quarter, which offers stunning views of the Dome of the Rock and Mount of Olives.  Just outside of the frame to the left, there are two green domes enclosed by a small fence and a building with an orange roof right next to it.  The domes are a small mosque, which is frequented for prayer throughout the day by Muslims working in this part of the Old City, and the orange roof is a synagogue.  The guide told us about an encounter he had with an Orthodox man who approached him on the rooftop one afternoon.  The man asked our guide to come with him over to the orange roof to observe something he had noticed.  From the synagogue you could hear men singing in prayer while the Muslim mosque (directly next door) was also alive with prayer.  The Orthodox man asked the guide if he could hear how the two groups, each in separate places of worship, made a beautiful harmony when their singing overlapped.  I hope this story comes through as powerfully as it did when it was told to me, as I think it is a profound statement of peace and acceptance in a city that is so otherwise wrought with conflict.

This photo was taken in the Jewish Quarter, which I mentioned was almost completely destroyed during the Six Day War in 1967.  Because so many of the buildings are new, this portion of the Old City seems brighter and more modern than the other Quarters.  However, in the reconstruction of the Jewish Quarter, a distinct effort was made to maintain the character of the buildings, so you will often find situations like the one pictured above: A building dating back 800 years right next to one that was built a mere 40 years ago.  Can you tell which is which?  Yeah, me neither :)  Our guide actually grew up in the building on the left, so he told us with certainty that this was the older structure.  It is amazing how similar the two buildings appear, despite their incredible age difference!  Also take note of the street sign on the wall directly ahead.  You can see that there are three lines of text, each one giving the street name in a different language: Hebrew, Arabic, and English.  The Arabic line of text has been covered with a sticker for the conservative, Orthodox politician who was running for Mayor at the time (he lost).  Again, here is an example of the political tension that exists within the city, but could be easily overlooked if it were not pointed out.

This is just a great view of the Western Wall and Dome of the Rock.

The two photos above are some of my favorites and I am so glad I took the tour to learn what the fabulously bright stencils signify.  These entryway decorations can be seen on a few of the homes in the Muslim Quarter, but the one above was the most vibrant.  The stencils are only present on households where a resident has made the Hajj, or the pilgrimage to Mecca.  I had no idea that making this pilgrimage was such an honor, as I assumed anyone could go if they could afford to get there since it is considered a religious duty and one of the five pillars of Islam.  However, I learned that it is actually quite difficult to make the Hajj since each country is only allotted a certain number of spots each year in order to control the crowds.  So, in reality it is impossible for every Muslim to make the pilgrimage in their lifetime, thus making those who do go extremely honored within their community.  Looking at the stencils, you can see the Ka'aba (the black cube), the palm trees representing Mecca, the Dome of the Rock, and other symbols important in the Muslim faith.  In the doorway is also displayed a large poster that shows the Ka'aba and signifies that a person within the residence has made the Hajj.

The dome in the background is the roof of the Holy Sepulchre, and the doorway in the foreground is the entrance to the Coptic Church.

The Ethiopian Christians have owned this rooftop property (on top of the Holy Sepulchre) for centuries.  Given the importance of the Holy Sepulchre itself, the Ethiopians will not give up their ownership of the rooftop even though they have more extravagant churches elsewhere in the city.  People still live in the buildings scattered around the roof, and a small doorway just outside the frame on the right leads you down a steep and narrow stairway that houses a series of altars.  Ethiopian ministers sit at each tiny congregation and it almost feels wrong to be a tourist walking through their place of worship, but I am certainly glad to have seen it.

I just loved this doorway, also on the Ethiopian rooftop.

In the Muslim Quarter, looking down the alleyway lined with shops.  These markets are called "shuks" and there are different shuks for different types of goods (produce, meat, clothes, etc).

There are lots of shops selling these sandals, and I can almost guarantee that I will come home with a pair (or four).

Living outside of the Old City, it is sometimes easy to forget that this place exists.  I get so caught up in day-to-day life and have to remind myself that I am in Jerusalem.  We have been trying to take pictures of normal streets so that we can show you what everyday life looks like for us, because it honestly isn't the same as what you see above.  Doing this post reminds me that I need to get back up to the Old City, especially if it involves going to our favorite hummus shop, Abu Shukri, or scouting out the elusive pastry shop I have heard so much about and we only just found the location of a couple weeks ago (after searching for weeks!), Zalatimo's.

I hope you all are well wherever in the world you are and remember that we love updates from home, too :)

Magic Sauce

I realize that the substance in this photo doesn't look all that exciting (as it turns out, brown syrup is extremely unphotogenic), but you have to trust me when I tell you that this sauce is the stuff dreams are made of.  We first tasted the sauce at a local restaurant, where we ordered a platter of ten small salads, hummus, and dips that was served with fresh-baked bread.  The majority of the platter was filled with things we had seen before, so we were initially thrown off by this ugly sauce that was completely unfamiliar.  Once we tried it, though, we couldn't get enough.  I was even tempted to ask for more so that we could eat it straight from the bowl.  We dipped bread, vegetables, and even other sauces into it, noticing that each one had a better flavor with it than without.  By the end of our meal, I knew I would have to learn to make the sauce at home.  The server told us that the only ingredients were dates, honey, and tahini, so the next night I got out the food processor and proceeded to try my hand at the sauce.  As is usually the case when trying to recreate restaurant food without a recipe, it didn't turn out great.  Edible yes, but by no means magical.

Fast forward about a week, and I am on a tour of the Mehane Yehuda market.  The guide leads us into a cramped shop selling all sorts of dried goods-- from beans and rice to nuts and spices-- and pulls from the shelf this jar of date syrup.  He tells us about its incredible flavor and then it hits me: This is the missing ingredient from my magic sauce recipe!  I bought a jar and remade the sauce, this time using the date syrup instead of blended whole dates.  Where the previous sauce lacked a bold date flavor and deep color, this sauce had it all.  I love kitchen triumphs.

I am not sure if you can find unsweetened date syrup in stores stateside, but it would be worth looking for it at your local health/natural food store just in case.  The only ingredient should be dates, as seen in this syrup I found on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Date-Lady-Organic-Syrup/dp/B008EXLL4O

To make the sauce, simply combine 1/4 cup date syrup, 1/4 tahini, and 1 tablespoon honey in a bowl.  Honestly, that's it.  No special equipment required :)  Use this as a dip for breads, mix into yogurt at breakfast, or even combine with more savory dishes for an amazing sweet-savory combination.  Enjoy!